Materials used.
The flowers, roots, and woods employed in perfumery are nearly all grown abroad, and even
when raised in the United States are seldom used for perfumery.
Essential or volatile oils are obtained by
distillation. In the case of delicate perfumes the flowers are macerated in warm oil or
cold lard (enfleurage). From this grease the oil may be extracted by alcohol. Sometimes
the flowers or other odorous bodies are macerated in alcohol.
Essences are solutions of volatile oils in
alcohol. The term tincture is sometimes used to express the same idea.
The dried flowers and rasped woods or roots
are used in the manufacture of sachets.
The following substances are obtained from
the animal kingdom: -
Musk, a secretion of the Musk deer (Muschus
moschatus), which inhabits Eastern Asia. There are three varieties. The Tonquin or Chinese
is the finer, but is apt to be adulterated.
Civet, a secretion of the Civet cat
(Viveraa civeta), and
Castor, from the beaver (Castor fiber), are
used in small quantities.
The Essence of Mirbane and flavoring ethers
are obtained by the chemist.
Lard, suet, and the fixed oils are used as
vehicles.
Alcohol employed in perfumery should be
free from all smell of fusel or other oils. Atwood's (patent) alcohol is generally
preferred. It is deodorized by distillation over permangenate of potassa.
Deodorizing
Alcohol.
1. Spirit of wine, brandy, or alcohol distilled over soap lose their empyreumatic odors
and tastes entirely. At about 215° the soap retains neither alcohol nor wood-spirit.
2. The empyreumatic oil, which remains in
combination with the soap which forms the residue of the distillation, is carried off at a
higher temperature by the vapor of water, which is formed during a second distillation,
the product of which is a soap free from empyreuma, and fit to be used again for similar
purposes.
3. The concentration of the alcohol
increases in this operation more than when soap is not employed, because this compound
retains the water and the alcoholic vapors which pass over are richer.
4. Thirty-three lbs. of soap is enough for
100 galls. of empyreumatic brandy, and direct experiments have shown that under the most
favorable circumstances the soap can retain 20 per cent. of empyreumatic oil.
5. The soap employed should contain no
potassa; it must be a hard or soda soap, and ought to be completely free from any excess
of fat acids or fluids, otherwise it may render the product rancid and impure. Common
soap, made with oleine and soda by the manufacture of stearine candles, has satisfied all
the conditions in practice.
If this soap is employed, it will be better
to add a little soda during the first distillation.
The hard soda-soaps, as exempt as possible
from fluid fat acids, remove completely the empyreumatic odor.
J.
Maria Farina Cologne.
Benzoin dissolved in alcohol, 4 oz.; essence of lavender, 8 oz.; essence of rosemary, 4
oz.; alcohol at 75°, 325 qts. To this solution add succesively neroli, 21 oz.; petit
grain, 21 oz.; cedrat, 21 oz.; Portugal, 2 1/2 lbs.; lemon, 2 1/2 lbs.; alcoholic extract
of geranium, 2 1/2 lbs. Shake several times; leave 14 days, and bottle.
Fine
Cologne Water.
Take alcohol at 85, 10 qts.; dissolve in it essence of neroli petit grain, 1/2 oz.;
essence of rosemary, 2 1/2 drs.; essence of lavender, 1 1/4 drs.; essence of clove, 1/2
dr.; essence of peppermint, 1/2 dr.; essence of bergamot, 12 1/2 drs.; lemon 12 1/2 drs.;
essence of Portugal, 7 1/2 drs.; tincture of benzoin, 1 1/4 drs.
Ordinary
Cologne.
Take alcohol at 85° 10 qts.; essence of neroli 1 1/4 drs.; essence of rosemary,, 10 drs.;
essence of lavender, 5 drs,; essence of thyme and clove, each 1/2 dr.; essence of lemon, 2
oz.; essence of peppermint, 1/4 dr.; tincture of benzoin, 1 1/4 drs.; rosewater, 2 lbs.
Cheap
Cologne.
Take alcohol at 85°, 10 qts.; essence of lemon, 5 oz.; essence of cedrat, 12 1/2 drs.;
essence of bergamot, 4 oz.; essence of lavender, 1 oz.; tincture of benzoin, 1 oz.
Recipes
for Cologne Water, from Redwood Gray's Supplement.
1. Oil of neroli, 2 drs.; oil of orange-peel, 1/2 oz.; oil of citron, 1 dr.; oil of
bergamot, 2 drs.; oil of lavender, oil of rosemary, each 1/2 dr.; oil of cinnamon, 1
scruple; cardamoms, powdered, balsam Peru, each 2 drs.; rectified spirits, 7 lbs. Macerate
10 days; then distill 6 pounds with a gentle heat.
2. Oil of bergamot, 3 oz.; oil of lemon, 2
oz.; oil of lavender, 3 1/2 drs.; oil of neroli. 2 1/2 drs.; oil of origanum, 2 drs., oil
of rosemary, 1 dr.; essence of vanilla, 2 drs.; musk, 10 grs.; rectified spirits, 13 pts.;
rosewater, 1 qt.; orange-flower water, 1 pt. Mix the oils; dissolve them in 10 pts. of the
spirits, then add the musk, and finally the waters, previously mixed with the remainder of
the spirits, And, after standing 2 weeks, filter.
Florida
Water.
Alcohol at 90°, 50 qts.; essence of lemon and Portugal, each 4 oz.; essence of lavender
and clove, each 8 oz.; canella, 1/2 oz.; water, 20 qts.
Hungary
Water.
Rectified alcohol, 1 gall.; oil of English rosemary, 2 oz.; oil of lemon-peel, 1 oz.; oil
of balm (melissa) 1 oz.; oil of mint, 1/2 dr.; esprit de rose, 1 pt.; extract de fleur
d'orange, 1 pt.
Extract
of Verbena.
Rectified spirits, 1 pt.; oil of lemon-grass, 3 drs., oil of lemon-peel, 2 oz.; oil of
orange-peel, 1/2 oz. After standing together for a few hours, and then filtering, it is
fit for sale. Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the
same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus; it is sold under the title of
Extrait
de Verveine.
Rectified spirits, 1 pt.; oil of orange-peel, 1 oz.; oil of lemon-peel, 2 oz.; oil of
citron, 1 dr.; oil of lemongrass, 2 1/2 drs.; extrait de fleur d'orange, 7 oz.; extrait de
tubereuse, 7 oz.; esprit de rose, 1/2 pt.
Imitation
Essence of Wallflower.
Extrait fleur d'orange, 1 pt.; extract of vanilla, 1/2 pt.; esprit de rose, 1 pt.; extract
of orris, 1/2 pt.; extract of cassia, 1/2 pt.; essential oil of almonds, 1/4 dr. Allow
this mixture to be made for 2 or 3 weeks prior to putting it up for sale.
Imitation
Essence of Violet.
Extract of cassia, 1 pt.; extract of rose, tincture of orris, extract of tuberose, each
1/2 pint.
Fleur
d'ltalie, or Italian Nosegay.
Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pts.; esprit de rose, triple, 1 pt.; esprit de jasmin,
esprit de violette, from pomade, each 1 pt.; extract of cassia, 1/2 pt.; extract of musk,
extract of Ambergris, each 2 oz.
Jockey
Club Bouquet (English formula).
Extract of orris-root, 2 pts.; esprit de rose, triple, 1 pt.; esprit de rose de pomade, 1
pt.; extrait de cassia, extrait de tubereuse, de pomade, each 1/2 pt.; extrait de
ambergris, 1/2 pt.; otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz.
Jockey Club Bouquet (French
formula).
Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pt.; esprit de tubereause, de pomade, 1 pt.; esprit de
cassia, de pomade, 1/2 pt.; esprit de jasmin, de pomade, 1/4 pt.; extract of civet, de
pomade, 3 oz.
Kew
Garden Nosegay.
Esprit de neroli (Petale), 1 pt.; esprit de cassia, esprit de tubereuse, esprit de jasmin,
from pomade, each 1/2 pt.; esprit de geranium, 1/2 pt.; esprit de musk, esprit de
ambergris, each, 3 oz.
Eau
de Milleflowers.
Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pt.; esprit de rose, esprit de tubereuse, esprit de jasmin,
esprit de fleur d'orange, esprit de cassia, esprit de violette, esprit de reseda
(mignonette), from pomade, each 1/2 pt.; esprit de vanilla, esprit do ambergris, esprit de
musk, each 2 oz.; otto of almonds, otto of neroli, otto of cloves, each 10 drops; otto of
bergamot, 1 oz. These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then
filtered prior to sale.
Essence
of Rondeletia.
Spirits (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gall.; otto of lavender, 2 oz., otto of cloves, 1 oz.; otto of
rose, 3 drs.; otto of bergamot, 1 oz.; extract of musk, extract of vanilla, extract of
ambergris, each 1/4 pt. The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for
sale. Very excellent rondeletia may also be made with whiskey.
Bouquet
Royale.
Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pt.; esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 pt.; extract of jasmin,
extract of violet (from pomade), each 1/2 pt.; extract of verbena, extract of cassia, each
2 1/2 oz.; otto of lemons, otto of bergamot, each 1/2 oz.; extract of musk, extract of
ambergris, each 1 oz.
Suave.
Extract of tuberose, extract of jasmin, extract of cassia, extract of rose (from pomade),
each 1 pt.; extract of vanilla, 5 oz.; extract of musk extract of ambergris, each 2 oz.;
otto of bergamot, otto of cloves, each 1 dr.
Spring
Flowers.
Extract of rose, extract of violet (from pomade), each 1 pt.; extract of rose (triple), 2
1/2 oz.; extract of cassia, 2 1/2 oz.; otto of bergamot, 2 drs.; extract of ambergris, 1
oz.
Bouquet
de Caroline, also called Bouquet des Delices.
Extrait de rose, extrait de violette, extrait de tubereuse (from pomade), each 1 pt.;
extract of orris, extract of ambergris, each 1/2 pt.; otto of bergamot, otto of Limette,
otto of cedrat, each 1/4 oz..
Esterhazy
Bouquet.
Extrait de fluer d'orange (from pomade), 1 pt.; esprit de rose (triple), 1 pt.; extract of
vitivert, extract of vanilla, extract of orris, extract of tonquin, each 1 pt.; esprit de
neroli 1 pt.; extract of ambergris, 1/2 pt.; otto of santal, 1/2 dr.; otto of cloves, 1/2
dr.
Essence
of Bouquet.
Esprit de rose (triple), 1 pt.; extract of vanilla, 2 oz.; extract of orris, 8 oz.; otto
of lemons, 1/4 oz.; otto of bergamot, 1 oz.
American
Shampoo Liquor.
Rum, 3 qts.; spirit of wine, 1 pt.; water, 1 pt.; tincture of cantharides, 1/2 oz.,
carbonate of ammonia, 1/2 oz., salt of tartar, 1 oz. Rub it on, and afterwards wash with
water. By omitting the salt of tartar it nearly resembles Balm of Columbia
Glycerine and Cantharides Lotion.
Rosemary water, 1 gall.; spirits of sal volatile, 1 oz.; tincture of cantharides, 2 oz.;
glycerine, 4 oz. To be used with a sponge or soft brush twice a day when the hair is
falling off.
Dupuytren's
Pomade.
Tincture of cantharides (1 part flies to 8 of proof spirit), purified beef marrow, each 1
oz.; sugar of lead, 1 dr.; balsam of Peru, 3 drs.; oils of cloves and canella, each 15
drops. Used to prevent baldness, and restore the hair.
Eau
Lustrule.
Castor oil (deodorized), 2 1/2 lbs.; strongest alcohol (deodorized), 2 1/2 lbs.;
cantharides, in powder, 1/2 oz.; oil of bergamot 2 1/2 oz.; otto of roses, 20 drops. Mix;
let them stand a few days, and filter. To soften the hair, and prevent baldness.
Honey-water
for the Hair.
Honey, 4 lbs.; very dry sand, 5 lbs. Mix and put into a vessel that will hold 5 times as
much; distill with a gentle heat a yellowish acid water.
Vegetable
Hair Wash.
Southernwood 2 oz.; box-leaves, 6 oz.; water, 4 pts. Boil gently for 1/4 of an hour,
strain, and to each pint of the liquid add 2 oz. spirit of rosemary, and 1/2 dr. of salt
of tartar, or 1 dr. of Naples soap.
Borax
Hair Wash.
Borax, 1 oz.; camphor, 1/2 oz.; boiling water, 1 qt. When cold filter for use.
Excellent
Hair Wash.
Sufficient liquid ammonia added to a pint of water to make the whole pungent. Be careful
not to have it too strong. Afterwards wash with clean water.
To
Cleanse Long Hair.
Beat up the yolk of an egg with a pint of soft water. Apply it warm, and afterwards wash
it out with warm water.
Bandoline
Is usually made by infusing quince-seeds. It may also be made by boiling a tablespoonful
of unbruised flaxseed in a pint of water for 5 minutes and straining. It is sometimes made
by dissolving gum arabic or gum tragacanth in water. About 4 oz. gum arabic or 1 oz. gum
tragacanth to the pint.
Twigg's
Hair-Dye.
Sugar of lead, 1 dr.; milk of sulphur, 2 drs.; rosewater, 4 fl. oz.; glycerine, 1 fl. oz.
Mix. This is the general composition of the various popular hair-dyes and restoratives,
which contain a yellowish sediment and are not oily.
Silver
Hair-Dye.
Nitrate of silver, 1 oz.; water, 9 oz.; in blue bottle; sulphuret of potassium (fresh), 1
oz.; water, 8 oz., in white bottle. Moisten the hair first with the latter solution, and
when dry add the silver solution.
Another. - Owing to the unpleasant smell of
the mordant (white bottle) in the foregoing, a substitute is made by pouring boiling
water, 1/2 pt., upon 3 oz. of bruised galls. When cold strain and bottle. For the blue
bottle add to the solution, as above, ammonia, until the precipitate formed is
redissolved.
Brown Dye.
To a saturated solution of sulphate of copper (blue vitriol), add ammonia until the
precipitate which falls is redissolved. For a mordant, to be first applied, as above, use
a saturated solution of ferrocyanide of potassium.
Orfila's
Hair-Dye.
Take 3 parts of litharge and 2 of quicklime, mix thoroughly; keep in a well stopped
bottle. When used mix with water or milk, apply to the hair, and envelope in an oil-skin
cap fur 5 or 6 hours.
To
remove Superfluous Hair.
Take of quicklime, 16 parts; pearlash, 2 parts; liver of sulphur, 2 parts. Mix thoroughly,
and keep in a tight bottle. When used mix to the consistence of a paste, and after it has
remained on 2 or 3 minutes remove with a wooden knife.
Another. - The following is more efficient,
but must be used with care as it contains arsenic.
Take of freshly slaked lime, 8 oz.;
orpiment, 1/2 oz. Mix thoroughly, and keep in well closed bottles. When used apply as a
paste with water until it begins to burn the skin, and shave off with an ordinary
paper-knife. The time required will vary with different hair. Black hair takes longer than
fair. All of the depilatories sold are founded upon the two foregoing receipts.
Toilet
Powders
Are made of starch variously scented. Many of the powders and lotions sold contain bismuth
which will sometimes blacken.
Violet
Powder.
Wheat starch, 12 lbs.; powdered orris-root, 2 1/2 lbs.; oil of lemon, 1/2 oz.; oil of
bergamot, 1/4 oz.; oil of cloves, 2 dr. Mix.
Bloom of
Roses.
Dissolve 1/4 oz. of cinnamon in 1/2 oz. of strong ammonia; after 2 days add 1 pt.
rose-water, and 1/2 oz. Esprit de Rose (triple). Mix and set aside for a week. Then pour
off the liquid from any sediment that may be present.
Pomade a
la Rose.
Take white grease, 1 lb.; nut-oil, 3 1/2 oz.; spermaceti, or white wax, 1 1/3 oz. Melt
together and add the oil. Pass the warm mixture through a clean cloth, and then stir it in
a mortar till cold. If the pomade must be white, add no coloring matter; but if colored
introduce the proper material. For red, soak 1/2 dr. of powdered alkanet in the oil
previously warmed. For yellow, add 1/4 or 1/2 dr. of annotto to the mixture of grease,
when melted. Pass through a clean cloth, and perfume with essence of geranium, 1 1/4 dr.;
essence of rose, 1/4 dr.; essence of canella, 1-16 dr. Introduce the essences into the
grease half fluid.
Economical
Pomade.
Take white grease, 2 lbs.; essence of bergamot or lemon, 1 1/2 dr.; essence of cloves, 1
dr. Color with alkanet or carmine lake.
Pomade
of Bitter Almonds.
Take pure white grease, 2 lbs.; natural essence of bitter almonds, 1 1/2 dr.; essence of
lemon, cedrat, or Portugal, 1 1/2 dr.
Pomade
Canadienne.
Melt over a water bath, 4 lbs. of bear's grease and infuse 8 lbs. of rose leaves, as
directed for the Pomade a la Rose. Then strain, and perfume with essence of mint, 1/2 oz.;
essence of rose, 1 oz.; essence of vanilla, a few drops. Color rose with a little carmine.
Pomade
Divine.
Beef marrow, 3 lbs.; put it into an earthen vessel and cover it with cold water, and
change the water daily for a few days, using rose-water the last day. Pour off and press
out the water, add to the marrow 4 oz. each of the styrax, benzoin and Chio turpentine; 1
oz. orris powder; 1/2 oz. each of powdered cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Let the vessel in
hot water, and keep the water boiling for 3 hours; then strain.
Stick
Pomatum.
This pomade is generally composed of mutton suets, but is sometimes made of hard body, to
which is added, in summer, 1 oz. of wax for every pound of body. Lard body can also be
used, but the proportion of wax must be increased. In this preparation always melt the
least fusible body first. In moulding care must be taken not to run the pomade while too
hot, as cavities will occur in the centre, rendering the sticks liable to break.
To perfume the usual odors are, for 1 lb.
of pomade, essence of bergamot, lavender, thyme, orange-peel, of each 1 dr. Color with
annotto or saffron.
Another method of preparing this pomade,
also called cosmetic, is by melting 2 parts of tallow and 1 part of wax, in sheet-iron
moulds, the size desired for the stick, the mass having been perfumed and colored.
Philicomes
and Cosmetics.
Philicomes and cosmetics are composed in winter, of equal parts of lard and earthnut oil,
and in summer, of 2 parts of grease and 1 part oil. The greases are melted over a
water-bath, and passed through a cloth. When the products begin to solidify the oils are
added, and the mass is then run into jars or bottles. For the fine pt. philicomes, the
pommades a la rose, orange-flower, au bouquet, geranium, a la tubereuse, etc., are
substituted for the lard.
Beef
Marrow Philicome.
Take fat, 10 lbs.; pommade a la rose, aux millefleurs, 1 lb.; oil of cassia, 2 lbs.; oil
of jasmine, 2 lbs.; spirit of roses 1 2/3 oz.; bergamot, 5 drs.; spirit of petit-grain, 2
1/2 drs.; spirit of geranium, 2 1/2 drs.; spirit of wintergreen. 4 drs.; infusion of
cinchona, 5 drs.; pure rum, 10 drs.; essence of roses, 5 drops.
Macassar
Oil.
Take oil of benzoin, 8 qts.; oil of noisette, 4 qts.; alcohol, 1 qt.; essence bergamot, 3
oz.; spirit of musk, 3 oz.; spirit of Portugal, 2 oz.; essence of roses, 2 drs. Mix, and
keep the whole over a water-bath for 1 hour. Then digest for a week, stirring several
times daily. Color with alkanet.
Amandine.
Mix in a mortar gum arabic, 2 oz.; white honey, 6 oz. Reduce to a thick mass and add 3 oz.
of neutral white soap. This being gradually incorporated, add 2 oz. of fresh coldpressed
oil of sweet almonds, and finally, the yolks of 5 eggs.
The paste has a firm consistence, and is
reduced by a thick milk of pistachio, made of fresh peeled pistach nuts, 4 oz.; distilled
rose-water, 4 oz. Aromatize with 1/2 dr. of bitter almonds for 1 lb. of paste. A small
portion, with a little warm water, produces a white lather of agreeable odor. This
composition is used to whiten and soften the skin.
Cold
Cream, No. 1.
Take of spermaceti and white wax, each 5 drs.; almond oil, 10 oz. Liquefy over a
water-bath; pour into a marble mortar, heated by boiling water, stir quickly, and add 3
1/2 oz. of rose-water, 15 grs. essence of roses, and a few drops of potash lye.
Camphor
Cold Cream.
Take of almond oil and rose-water, each 1 lb.; wax and spermaceti, 1 oz.; camphor, 2 oz.;
Otto of rosemary, 1 dr.
Lotion
for Freckles.
Take of corrosive sublimate, 5 grs.; muriatic acid, 30 drops; lump sugar, 1 oz.; alcohol,
2 oz.; rose-water, 7 oz. Agitate together till all is dissolved. Apply night and morning.
Another. - Take of sal ammoniac, 2 drs.;
cologne water, 1 oz.; soft water, 1 pint. Mix.
Milk of
Roses.
Melt together in a stoneware vessel over a waterbath, spermaceti, white wax, and soap,
each 1 oz. Rub in a marble mortar bitter almonds, 2 oz.; sweet almonds, 1 lb. Take out
3/4, and on the remaining 1/4 pour the above mixture, and continue rubbing. Then add by
degrees the other 3/4 of the almonds, always pestling, so as to incorporate thoroughly. In
a white glass bottle mix distilled water, 1 qt.; rose-water and spirit of rose, each 1/2
pt. Reserve 1 pt., and gradually pour the mixture first made into the remainder. Rub, and
strain through a cloth, then return the residuum to the mortar, triturate it with the
reserved mixture, strain, and mix with the other liquid.
Kalydor for
the Complexion.
Take blanched bitter almonds, 1 part; rose-water, 16 parts. Mix and strain, then add 5
grs. of bichloride of mercury to every 8 oz. bottle of the mixture, and scent with rose or
violet.
Pomade
for Chapped Lips.
Take oxide of zinc, 1 oz.; lycopodium powder 1 oz.; pomade rosat, 2 lbs. Mix, and make
into a perfectly homogeneous pomade.
This is an excellent remedy for chapped
lips and is beneficial in cases of ulceration of the nails of the feet.
Peau
d-Espagne, or Spanish Skin.
Is merely highly-perfumed leather. Take of oil of rose, neroli, and santal, each 1/2 oz.;
oil of lavender, verbena, bergamot, each 1/4 oz.; oil of cloves and cinnamon, each 2 drs.
In this dissolve 2 oz. of gum benzoin; in this steep good pieces of waste leather for a
day or two, and dry it over a line. Prepare a paste by rubbing in a mortar 1 dr. of civet
with 1 dr. of grain musk, and enough gum tragacanth mucilage to give a proper consistence.
The leather is cut up into pieces about 4 inches square; two of these are pasted together
with the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of paper, weighted or pressed until dry. It
may then be inclosed in silk or satin. It gives off its odor for years; is much used for
perfuming paper.
Indian
or Yellow Pastils.
Santal-wood, in powder, 1 lb.; gum benzoin, 1 1/2 lbs.; gum tolu, 1/4 lb.; nitrate of
potassa, 1 1/2 lbs.; otto of santal, otto of cassia, otto of cloves, each 3 drs.; mucilage
of tragacanth, q. s., to make the whole into a thick paste. The benzoin, santalwood, and
tolu are to be powdered and mixed by sifting them, adding the ottos. The nitre, being
dissolved in the mucilage, is then added. After well beating in a mortar the pastils are
formed in shape with a pastil mould, and gradually dried.
The Chinese josticks are of a similar
composition, but contain no tolu. Josticks are burned as incense in the temples of the
Buddhist, in the Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as greatly to enhance the value
of santal-wood.
Dr.
Paris's Pastils.
Benzoin, cascarilla, each 1/4 lb.; myrrh, 1 1/4 oz.; charcoal, 1 1/2 lb.; otto of nutmegs,
otto of cloves, each 3/4 oz.; nitre, 2 oz. Mix as in the preceding.
Perfumer's
Pastils.
Well-burned charcoal, 1 lb.; tolu, vanilla pods, cloves, each 1/4 lb.; benzoin, 3/4 lb.,
otto of santal, otto of neroli, each 2 drs.; nitre, 1 1/2 oz.; benzoin, 3/4 lb.; otto of
santal, otto of neroli, each 2 dr.; nitre, 1 1/2 oz.; mucilage of tragacanth, q. s.
Piesse's
Pastils.
Willow charcoal, 1/2 lb.; benzoic acid, 6 oz.; otto of thyme, otto of caraway, otto of
rose, otto of lavender, otto of cloves, otto of santal, each 1/2 dr. Prior to mixing
dissolve 3/4 oz. nitre in 1/2 pt. of distilled or ordinary rose-water; with this solution
thoroughly wet the charcoal, and then allow it to dry in a warm place. When the thus
nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed ottoes, and stir in the flowers of
benzoin. When well mixed by sifting (the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than
the pestle and mortar), with enough mucilage to bind the whole together, and the less that
is used the better.
Cachou
Aromatise.
Take of extract of liquorice and water, each 3 1/2 oz.; dissolve by the heat of a
water-bath, and add Bengal catechu, in powder, 462 grs.; gum arabic, in powder, 231 grs.
Evaporate to the consistence of an extract, and then incorporate the following substances,
previously reduced to fine powder: Mastic, cascarilla, charcoal, and orris-root, each 30
grs. Reduce the mass to a proper consistence, remove it from the fire, and then add
English oil of peppermint, 30 drops; tincture of ambergris and tincture of musk, each 5
drops; pour it on an oiled slab, and spread it out, by means of a roller, to the thickness
of a sixpenny piece. After it has cooled, apply some folds of blotting-paper, to absorb
any adhering oil, moisten the surface with water, and then cover it with the sheets of
silver-leaf. It must now be allowed to dry, then cut into very thin strips, and these
again divided into small pieces, about the size of a fenugreek seed.
AROMATIC VINEGARS.
In making these the vinegar known as No. 8 may be used. Vinegar of 25 to 30 per cent. is
required to dissolve essential oils.
Tarragon
(Estragon) Vinegar.
Tarragon (Artemesia dracunculus), 1 lb.; strong vinegar, 1 gal. The herb should be
gathered before blossoming. This may be diluted when used.
Vinaigre
aux fines herbes.
Tarragon, 12 oz.; basil, laurel leaves, each, 4 oz.; shallots, 2 oz.; strong vinegar, 1/2
gal. Let them soak for a week or two, and strain. It is too strong for use, but is added
to table vinegar to improve its flavor.
Cologne
Vinegar.
Add to each quart of cologne water, 1 oz. of No. 8 vinegar.
Aromatic
Vinegar.
Concentrated acetic acid, 8 oz.; oil of English lavender, 2 drs.; oil of English rosemary,
1 dr.; oil cloves, 1 dr.; oil of camphor, 1 oz.
Henry's
Vinegar.
Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each 1/2 oz.;
bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each, 1/4 oz.; alcohol, rectified, 4
oz.; concentrated acetic acid, 16 oz. Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit; then
add the acid, and digest for a week longer, at a temperature of about 70° Fahr. Finally,
press out the now aromatized acid, and filter it.
Vinagre
des quatre Voleurs, or Four Thieves' Vinegar.
Take fresh tops of common wormwood, Roman wormwood, rosemary, sage, mint, and rue, of each
3/4 oz.; lavender flowers, 1 oz.; garlic, calamus aromaticus, cinnamon, cloves, and
nutmeg, each 1 dr.; camphor, 1/2 oz.; alcohol, or brandy, 1 oz.; strong vinegar, 4 pts.
Digest all the materials except the camphor and spirit, in a closely covered vessel for a
fortnight, at a summer heat, then express and filter the vinaigre produced, and add the
camphor previously dissolved in the brandy or spirit.
Hygienic
Vinegar.
Brandy, 1 pint; oil of cloves, 1 dr.; oil of lavender, l dr.; oil of marjoram, 1/2 dr.;
gum benzoin, 1 oz. Macerate these together for a few hours, then add brown vinegar, 2
pts.; and strain or filter, if requisite, to be bright.
Toilet
Vinegar (a la Violette).
Extract of cassia, 1/2 pt.; extract of orris, 1/4 pt.; esprit de rose, triple, 1/4 pt.;
white wine vinegar, 2 pts.
Toilet
Vinegar (a la Rose).
Dried rose leaves, 4 oz.; esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 pt.; white wine vinegar, 2 pts.
Macerate in a close vessel for a fortnight, then filter and bottle for sale.
Camphorated
Vinegar.
Camphor, 6 drs.; alcohol 2 oz.; strong vinegar, 1 lb. Powder the camphor, by the aid of
the alcohol, in a mortar, and add the vinegar.